Month 7 The Patchwork Barn

This is the FREE Block of the Month pattern "Patchwork Barn", designed by Edyta Sitar exclusively for The Quilt Show. You must be a Star member of this world-wide quilt guild/show/internet community to receive the free patterns each month, beginning January 1, 2018. Join today and get started on this journey.

Previous instructions are here:

IntroductionMonth 1
Month 2
Month 3
Month 4
Month 5
Month 6

NOTE: On The Quilt Show, the Forum is the best place to ask questions, find answers, or find out if there is a change in the pattern.  I recommend you check in there frequently. And there is a Show and Tell Topic--show us your blocks. Forum Patchwork Barn

Three new blocks this month, none are particularly difficult. And if you don't want to applique', there is an alternative option.

Block 19 

This block is simply half square triangles (HST), 5 small and 1 large. This Post has a lot of information on making HST. I used the Half Square Triangle Ruler to make the small units and cut the large one from 5" squares--2 squares of each fabric make 4 units, we only need 3.

Block 20

As we are getting to the end of the pieced blocks, I dug in my bag of scraps from all the blocks so far to cut the pieces for these Rail Fence blocks. Each block needs twelve 3.5" x 1.5" pieces--it was easy to find all those from my leftovers.

This is also a helpful block to make if you are having precision piecing difficulties. Sew two 1.5" x 3.5" rectangles together on the long side, press flat. It should now measure 2.5" x 3.5". If it is perfect, add the third rectangle and you should have a 3.5" square. If it measures less than 2.5" wide, the seam allowance is too wide OR there is a pressing problem, the seam is not flat. If it is wider than 2.5", the seam allowance is too narrow. Getting comfortable with our seam allowance is the most important part of the piecing process, I think. Once you have it, you're all set.

Block 21 The Basket:

Now we are introduced to applique'. You will need to cut the handle from bias fabric so it will curve nicely on the background.

Applique' instructions are provided in the BOM 2018 Introduction Packet.  If you did not print that, you can print just that page now, if you like. It provides instructions for Fusible, Machine and Hand Applique' methods.

I chose to hand applique' the handle. My bias handle was cut .75" x 12"--if I were to do it again, I would cut the bias strip 1.25" wide, mine is a bit too small. I simply folded the bias in thirds, no sewing, and pressed with a hot, dry iron. If you want to make a tube, cut at least 1.25" wide, and sew a narrow seam allowance WRONG sides together. There are bias bars designed for this process, follow the directions that comes with them if you use this method. They help put the sewn seam on the back of the handle.

The pattern says to cut the upper background 3.5" x 6.5". There tends to be a little shrinkage with applique', so I usually start with the background cut larger than necessary, 4" x 7" would give you a bit of leeway. If you do that, you have to be very careful to trim the completed upper background to exact size, 3.5" x 6.5", keeping the basket handle centered on the background.

Here is how I marked the LOWER handle line on the background--this is the only line you should mark on the background. Using a small piece of freezer paper, I traced the lower curve, and was sure to add 1/4" below the ends of the handle pattern for the seam allowance. If I were making many of these, I would make my template from template plastic. I ironed the freezer paper to the front of the upper background, matching up the center line of the template and a center fold line on the fabric:

I used a mechanical pencil with a light touch to draw the curved line--remember, this is the LOWER LINE:

Pin just a bit of the handle to the drawn line, here there are only two pins. If you try to pin the entire handle in place before stitching, things tend to get crooked. By only pinning a few inches, I can stitch slowly, keeping the lower edge of the handle just touching the drawn line. Use thread that matches the handle and take small blindstitches, also called applique' stitches:

The reason you don't want to draw the upper line is because, if you did, your handle has to be perfectly made to touch that upper line. Remember, my prepared handle is slightly smaller than the pattern. Once the lower curve is sewn, it is a simple matter to sew the upper curve, wherever it falls--it will be neat and flat, and you have one less drawn line to deal with.

After sewing applique', it helps to press it face down on a fluffy towel. This helps prevent folds or puckers in the applique':

When pressed, trim the upper half of the basket to 3.5" x 6.5", being sure the handle is centered. Join the upper half to the lower half, and your basket is done.

If you do not want to applique' the curved handle, here is an alternative:

Perfect for paper piecing, this handle is easy to draw. Draw a 3" x 6" rectangle on lightweight paper--I use newsprint that comes 8.5" x 11". Put a dot at the 3" mark on the top long side. Draw a line from that center dot to the lower right corner. Draw another line from that top center dot to the lower left corner. Simply decide how wide you want your handle to be and draw the remaining two lower lines. I like to add the 1/4" seam allowance around the rectangle, so the drawn rectangle is now be 3.5" x 6.5". This helps me remember to trim the unit 1/4" larger than the finished size so I don't goof and cut on the finished size line.  NOTE: I used Electric Quilt 8, wonderful quilt design software, to create my paper patterns.

If you are new to paper piecing, you can find some tips here: Paper Piecing Tips. There is also a lot of paper piecing help in Month 2.

Background:  For three baskets, cut three squares 4.25", cut in half on the diagonal for the two background upper triangles, you have 6 triangles.  Cut the large lower center triangle from an 8" square, cutting on both diagonals--you have 4 Quarter Square Triangles, you only need 3.With paper piecing you want the pieces larger than they would be if you were piecing them in the regular way.

Basket Handle: my handle is 3/8" wide finished, I cut strips 1.25" x 6", two/basket, for the handles.

Paper Piecing the Handle Unit: place the large center quarter square triangle on the back of the paper, being sure the raw edge is at least 1/4" beyond the LOWER handle line. A pin or small dot of glue in the middle of the triangle will hold it in place if necessary.

Here the first handle has been sewn to the large lower triangle:

Turn the paper over, press with DRY iron, pressing the handle up, away from the lower triangle:

 Use the Add-a-Quarter ruler to trim the first handle to the correct size. I use a cardboard mailing insert. Fold the paper over the cardboard, placing the UPPER handle line against the cardboard. Slide the Add-a-Quarter ruler against the folded paper edge and trim the handle--it is now exactly 1/4" beyond the sewing line:

After adding the first handle, trim it, then add the second handle, trim it. Here both sides of the handles have been trimmed and are ready to have the upper background triangles added:

After the sewing is done:

Work from the back, and use an accurate ruler to trim the unit to exactly 3.5" x 6.5". The lines on the paper may not be perfect, due to shrinkage while sewing, just be sure you CUT it accurately. I start from the mid-point and measure outward 3.25"--that is half of the 6.5" unit you need. Trim two sides, rotate the unit and trim the remaining two sides:

 Remove the paper after trimming. What an adorable, perfectly pieced basket handle unit:

Make the bottom half of the basket, join top to bottom and you're done:

See you next month when we make the final 3 pieced blocks for the Patchwork Barn quilt.

Let's Quilt!

Barbara