LUCKY STARS PROGRESS

 A few months back I mentioned a new handwork project: LUCKY STARS. I was inspired by my friend Jackie Kunkel of Tuscon AZ as she showed all the great stars she was preparing: 

Jackie Kunkel photo

The Pattern from KUSTOM KWILTS
www.kustomkwilter.com

Read that first post for much more information: HERE

Getting fabric from my 12 Sunday Sew and Sew friends is a fun and easy way to gather a wide variety of fabrics each month. There is an assigned color each month and we each bring one light and one dark 3.5" square of that color for each person. These are very easy to cut from fat quarters. 

We "deal" them out as people arrive and everyone goes home with 12 light and 12 dark squares of the color. Here is the first month's table with the color Orange:

I thought I was going to LOVE this project. It's been a bit of a struggle. The pattern is great, the instructions are fine, I LOVE the design BUT...  I really don't know why I feel this way. 

I  LOVE making the 15 wedge ring by English Paper Piecing (EPP)--that is fun and simple handwork:

Joining the center star with black background to the outer wedge ring I find a bit more challenging:

So far I have made these 3, using different techniques each time:

I left the cardstock papers in before the machine applique--BIG mistake, it was a challenge to remove them after the applique

The "papers" were printed on Print n Piece Fuse Lite, easy enough and they stay in but they don't provide much of an edge for the EPP

Hybrid method, some hand, some machine applique and I took out the card stock wedges first--much better. 

I decided to machine applique the completed star to the black background, so much faster hand applique, and I am satisfied with that.

It is lucky that I have smart friends. One of them, Cyndi R., would rather Foundation Paper Piece (FPP) by machine than hand piece by the English Paper Piecing method (EPP). She worked with Electric Quilt (EQ8) to create a few star/centers that are the right size and shared those patterns with us.

Here are a few of Cyndi's blocks:

I printed her Split Star pattern on Freezer Paper and used it for my Blue/Aqua one:

For this one, I hand appliqued the outer Wedge Ring to the pieced Star, leaving the extra black background to be trimmed away after the applique was done.  I carefully removed the card stock papers from the Wedge Ring before the applique.  

After trimming the excess black background from behind the Wedge Ring, I machine appliqued the completed Star with Wedge Ring to a pieced black background square. Then I cut away the extra back background behind the Wedge Ring/Star.  I was happiest with this plan. 

A few of the Sunday Sew and Sews took a local class on how to make this entirely by machine, gluing all the pieces together then machine appliquing each seam. That is an interesting technique BUT this was supposed to be my ongoing HAND project so I am not interested in that method. 

So, for now, I will keep making Stars by Foundation Paper Piecing, using FREEZER PAPER as the foundation, then doing BOTH hand and machine applique to complete the block. 

If you want to know more about Foundation Paper Piecing with Freezer Paper, see my TUTORIAL HERE.

Susan C. said "I was DREADING this project BUT I LOVE this block and English Paper Piecing!" I am thrilled she is loving it. Look at her progress:

A few of our group haven't started yet so time will tell how many of us make a complete quilt. I can always use more placemats...

Let's quilt.

Barbara

PAPER PIECING LESSONS

 Having just returned from 5 days in Las Vegas for our 50th anniversary, I didn’t have a weekly post ready. 

Using the SEARCH box in the upper left corner above, I typed Paper Piecing. Here is what I got:

Paper piecing posts

If you are new to Paper Piecing or are experienced with this technique, you will likely learn some useful tips in these posts.

Next week the Month 5 GAME ON! Post will appear.

Let’s quilt.

Barbara

GAME ON! Month 1

Game On! is the 2026 Block of the Month quilt designed by Becky Goldsmith exclusively for THE QUILT SHOW: find Game On! information here. Join as a Star Member to get all the patterns and all the videos FREE. Membership is just $49/year and provides access to over 18 years of shows and tremendous additional content. Join HERE

Prints or Solids, the choice is yours. Buy a KIT or use your own fabric: 

In Month 1 we make the center star points. Becky uses vellum for the foundation paper piecing, sewing through the paper. I will show how I use Freezer paper, not sewing through the paper, so the freezer paper foundations can be used many times.

If you are new to Paper Piecing, I suggest you follow the pattern instructions as written. 

I provide TIPS that may help. They are supplemental to Becky's instructions, use them if you wish.

TIP 1: Watch all the VIDEOS for each month before you begin. Month 1 has 4 of them, each about 7 minutes long. Becky shows you in detail exactly how to prepare the foundation papers, how to place the fabrics for successful piecing and all the steps she uses for making this quilt. Watch them FIRST before you begin.

TIP 2: READ the 18 page GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS in Month 1. There is a lot of detailed sewing instruction in there for Month 1. 

TIP 3: If you are new to paper piecing, know that fabric pieces are cut slightly larger than necessary to allow for proper placement. lt would not hurt to cut this month's pieces 1/2" LONGER than the pattern says. For example, piece 1 is cut 7" long. Cutting it 7.5" long gives just a little bit of insurance. Piece 2 is cut 5.5" long, 6" is a little more forgiving. 

I suggest you cut ONE set of fabrics the size called for before cutting them all. Sew the first Star Point to see if you are happy with the sizes of each piece. If so, cut them all that size. If you would like a little bit extra, cut the next set a half inch longer, to see if you like that better. 

PLEASE NOTE: the CUT SIZES IN THE PATTERN WORK FINE--some people just like a little  bit more fabric for insurance.

TIP 4: if using Freezer Paper, be sure to use small dabs of glue to adhere the wrong side of the fabric to the wrong side of the paper. If the fabric comes off the paper before you have finished sewing the entire unit it is a challenge to put it back on exactly where it goes. This is not a problem when sewing through the paper as with vellum but there are places where dabs of glue help with the vellum too.

TIP 5: if sewing through the paper as the pattern instructs, it is essential you decrease the stitch length--1.75 is the largest I would do. When tearing off the paper at the end you  don't want to have the stitches get distorted or come open. Smaller stitch length is essential. This makes it harder to un-sew should you make a mistake. And you will, at least once. Have a good stitch ripper on hand.

The ADVANTAGE to using Freezer Paper is the patterns can be re-used multiple times. There is no difficulty removing the paper as it separates off completely when the unit is made. There is no need to lower the stitch length, the standard 2.0 length for piecing works well for me. 

Here is my technique with Freezer Paper. If you want more information about this process see my TUTORIAL here:  Freezer Paper Foundation Piecing 

Use dabs of glue to secure fabric to paper. 

Put the wrong side of fabric 1  to the wrong side of the Freezer paper (FP). Fold the FP back on the SOLID line. This is the SEWING LINE. Put fabric 2 right sides together to fabric 1, being sure to center it. Stitch right along the fold, slowly, not sewing on the paper nor away from the paper: RIGHT ALONG THE FOLD OF THE PAPER:

Fabric 2 placed RST on Fabric 1

Fold FP back so stitches can be sewn right against the fold

Sewing right along the folded edge of the FP

TIP 6: The NUMBER ONE MISTAKE students make as they learn foundation paper piecing--they FORGET TO TRIM.  The process is:

SEW--join fabrics 1 and 2

FLIP--flip fabric 2 UP, the only way it can be flipped

PRESS--use a DRY IRON  to completely press fabric 2 flat on the seam against the paper foundation

TRIM--fabric 2 is oversized and MUST BE TRIMMED, before adding fabric 3

Here I am using vellum so you can see the issue. Fabric 2 has been sewn, flipped, pressed, but NOT YET TRIMMED. There is excess fabric 2 beyond the seam allowance that joins fabric 2 to fabric 3:

Use the Add-A-Quarter ruler and a postcard to TRIM FABRIC 2 exactly 1/4" beyond the sewing line:

Place fabric 3 centered on fabric 2, sew, flip, press, trim. 

Fabric 3 has been sewn to fabric 2 with a perfect 1/4" seam allowance. Fabric 3 is slightly oversized, so it is now ready to be TRIMMED: 

After trimming fabric 3, repeat for piece 4. Be sure to check the placement of each fabric to be added to be certain it will cover the area on the paper it needs to cover.

After adding fabric 4, TRIM the long side where fabric 5 joins fabrics 1-4:

Fabrics 1-4 sewn, ready to TRIM for fabric 5

When adding fabric 5, it is very important to place it so it will completely cover the area fabric 5 needs to cover. Fold the FP back to be sure it fits. Fabric 5 is placed face up on the mat, the FP with 1-4 in place is placed on top of fabric 5--by folding the FP piece 5 back I can clearly see fabric 5 will cover the area it needs to cover for fabric 5 on the pattern:

Once Part one is complete, follow Becky's instructions to use a quality ruler to trim 1/4" beyond the solid lines on all sides. With FP, you simple peel the fabric off the paper and use the FP again for the next unit. With Vellum, Becky leaves the paper on until AFTER the Center Block is almost completely sewn.

For Part two, Becky has an excellent video showing how to place fabrics 6 and 7 to achieve the very acute angle:

Piece 6 is wrong side up on the mat, the FP pattern is placed so it is completely covered by the fabric:  

Use the Add-a-Quarter to trim piece 6, ready to join piece 7:

Fold the FP pattern back, place fabric 7 under fabric 6, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, you can clearly see the white fabric 7 piece will cover the area it needs to cover: 

Sew the seam joining fabrics 6 and 7. Press toward fabric 7, use a ruler to trim 1/4" away from the SOLID LINES, and Part Two is ready to sew to Part One. 

TIP 7: Because I am using Freezer Paper, the paper is gone from both Parts One and Two before I join them. I work with positioning pins to be sure I have the two units where they need to be once joined.

IMPORTANT: Because I removed the paper I NEED to see where the long point goes so I can join it properly to the larger unit. Very Simple: I use a good ruler and mechanical pencil to draw short lines (about one inch long on both sides) at the very tip of the white fabric 1/4" in from the raw edge--this shows me exactly where to put the POSITIONING PIN:

I machine BASTE about 1" on either side of this important spot, turning my stitch length very long, 5.0 or longer. It only takes a few seconds to sew that inch or two, check it, and, if it's not as perfect as you want, pull out the basting stitches, realign the seam, and try again. This is a FIDDLE PLACE: fiddle with it until it looks as good as you want it to. I was happy with this so I turned the stitch length back to 2.0 and sewed the entire seam: 

TIP 8: While Becky shows where it is essential to back stitch on the pattern, I found it also helpful to backstitch at the outer edges of each seam. It is particularly helpful in Month 2, when we make the four CORNER BLOCKS.

Ask Questions on the Forum. Show your Progress on the Forum. We are eager to see how you play with Game On!

Let's quilt.

Barbara

PICK A PETAL ADDED BONUS -- PAPER PIECED FAN BLADES

The 2024 Block of the Month Quilt for The Quilt Show was designed by Jen Kingwell exclusively for Star Members of The Quilt Show. Join today to get access to the patterns, once a month throughout 2024, along with almost 500 shows featuring the best and brightest movers and shakers in the Quilt World. Membership is $49 for the entire year, the best money you will spend on your quilting journey.

This is an extra added bonus--instructions on how to paper piece those little fan blades. There are 256 fan blades, that make 64 Fan Blocks, or 32 Double Fan Blocks in the outer border so working ahead is a good idea, rather than waiting until Month 11 to start. 

NOTE: If you prefer to follow the pattern instructions just ignore this post.

The sample quilt uses a very scrappy plan--the backgrounds and fan handles are all different. This shows 2 Fan Blocks made, then joined together: 

You have some options. The top one shown below has one fabric in the background and handle, the middle one has four different fabrics, the bottom one has two handles and one double background. Do whichever you like or some of each as I am doing:

The Fan Blocks are the same size as the fans from Month 1. They include a background that will make each Double Fan Block finish at 4" x 8", or 4.5" x 8.5" with seam allowances. The template for the background will be provided in Month 11. Just make the fan blades with handles so you will be able to add the background when the template is provided.  If you have the acrylic template set, you have the background piece.

To me, one of the most time-consuming parts of the fan block is cutting the many blades with the small templates. A friend/student reminded me about paper piecing the fans as we did when we made Garden Party Down Under. Brilliant! It takes little time to cut rectangles for the blades and paper piece them. 

Paper piecing uses more fabric but saves time. You can print the pattern that is provided on newsprint, vellum, or freezer paper. The advantage to freezer paper is you need very few printed patterns, you DO NOT sew through the  paper. Stitch length remains as normal for piecing, 2.0 for me. Each pattern can be used many times, so far I have made 40 fan blocks with only TWO printed patterns.

I have a Tutorial on Freezer Paper Foundation Piecing from an earlier Block of the Month, Color My World. Check it out, I won't repeat all that information here.

First, I cut a wide variety of fan blades about 2.5" x 3.5". You might find you can get away with slightly smaller so try a few first before cutting 256 rectangles:

On the LIVE which will air Friday February 2, 2024, noon central time, I will show all the steps described here. I recommend you watch it for more information. Find all my LIVE broadcasts HERE

Paper Piecing can seem "upside down and backwards". Place the butt side of the fabric to the butt side of the paper. Align two fabrics right sides together so there is the normal 1/4" seam allowance. If not sure you have the fabrics in the right place use a PIN to check  BEFORE sewing.

Use the EDGE of  the Freezer Paper FOLDED BACK as the GUIDE for where to sew. Right next to the FOLD:

The best notion I own for paper piecing is the Add-A-Quarter ruler. Use it with a flat edge, like a postcard, to trim excess fabric after sewing the first pair of rectangles in place, giving the 1/4" seam for adding the next rectangle. The postcard is placed on the next sewing line, fold the paper back over the postcard, and put the ruler 1/4" away from the line, Adding A Quarter inch:

Angles can be tricky, that orange floral just barely covers the paper. I should have moved it a bit more:

The process is SEW, FLIP, TRIM, SEW. Because you are pressing the fabric to the waxy side of the freezer paper, the fabric stays put. After making several the wax is gone, so I use a very light dab of glue stick, my favorite for this is Elmer's Disappearing Purple Washable School Glue. Here are my favorite notions for freezer paper piecing. I will demo how use them in the LIVE:

Once the four blades are sewn on, trim the excess fabric away, being sure you get a full 1/4" seam allowance beyond the finished line. I use scissors for the curves, rotary cutter for the straight edges:

 

Now you get to decide, do you want to make two complete 4" fan blocks and join them. OR do you want to sew two sets of 4 fan blades then add a half circle handle and a Double background. I did both, finally settling on the double sets of fan blades as my favorite:

To make the double handle I tried two methods. I created a template of the double size from template plastic. After trying to machine piece it and doing a poor job, I decided to hand applique it on. That worked better. But it was fiddly to keep the handle where it needed to be as I was sewing.

Then I decided to prepare the outer edge of the handle over freezer paper, as I often do for applique. I simply used a 3" circle from Bigger Perfect Circles, adding a seam allowance at the bottom. Here is what my page looks like.  I printed it on freezer paper and it worked great. I won't send this out, you can simply draw your own:

12 Doubles, 4 Singles

Seam allowance glued to back of freezer paper 

If you want the double handle to be made from two fabrics, simply sew two squares cut 2.5" together and make a double handle that uses two fabrics. It adds another seam but is more scrappy.

After gluing the curved edge over the freezer paper, I knew it would be so easy to machine applique these  handles now that they are prepared. So I did that and loved it. I will do all the rest of them this way. I used the acrylic template to add the dots at the bottom edges and center. Then I used a very light touch of fabric glue to hold it in place, no pins.

 Once it is sewn in place, by hand or machine, spritz with plain water, count to 10, and the freezer paper will pull right out. If it doesn't, spritz again and next time use less glue:

Some of the best videos on machine applique are from Becky Goldsmith, prepared for SIZZLE, the 2019 Block of the Month quilt. Find them HERE

Then I decided to make the background as a Double background. The Kit has at least 28 fat eighths, making it easy to cut these as 5" x 9". It takes 32 Doubles to equal 64 Singles, the amount needed for the outer border of this quilt. 

Fold the rectangle in half, WRONG SIDES OUT. Use the acrylic template to draw/cut the background. Cutting the rectangle 5" allows for a bit extra along both outer edges. Trim that AFTER THE BLOCK IS COMPLETE. 

BE SURE TO PLACE THE FOLD ON THE INNER DOT--with the FOLD you don't need the seam allowance at the middle. Here the FOLD is at the top and the RED ARROW points to the dots at the seam allowance placed exactly on the FOLD:

I found the outside background easy to machine piece, using pins that align the dots to the fan blades. When both the handle and outside background are sewn on, carefully trim the rectangle to 4.5" x 8.5". I work from the middle outward, putting the 4.25" line on the center. You should have 1/2" of background beyond the outer fan blades, which is 1/4" background, 1/4" seam allowance:

There are so many ways to do all these various steps. Try a variety to learn your favorite. My motto is "I want the fastest method that gives me the result I want.". Sometimes that's by hand, sometimes by machine. The more skills you have, the more likely you will find the right technique for any given project.

Let's quilt.

Barbara