My Joyful Journey: The Patchwork Barn Quilt

Showing posts with label The Patchwork Barn Quilt. Show all posts

Saturday, December 1, 2018

Month 12 The Patchwork Barn

Donna created her own home in the center

Terri used the Crystal Farms Kit and enlarged the background

My Top--still a Top

I have several detailed tutorials that may help you with Quilting and Binding:

Pin Basting for Machine Quilting

Batting, Backing and Binding: Bias or Straight Grain

I hope you enjoyed this quilt and learned from it. Now it's on to SIZZLE!

Let's Quilt.

Barbara

Wednesday, October 31, 2018

Month 11 The Patchwork Barn

This is the FREE Block of the Month pattern "Patchwork Barn", designed by Edyta Sitar exclusively for The Quilt Show. You must be a Star member of this world-wide quilt guild/show/Internet community to receive the free patterns each month, beginning January 1, 2018. Join today and get started on this journey.

Previous Months can be found here.

NOTE: This is being posted one day early as I am headed to Houston today. The instructions for Month 11 post on November 1, 2018 on The Quilt Show.

We are getting down to the end of this year's Block of the Month. Now you have the Quilt Assembly Instructions. You can put your blocks in the exact place the cover quilt uses or move them around. I started with the cover quilt, put my blocks on the wall, then rearranged them to suit my fabric choices. It's your quilt, make it as you like.

I also used a different center and added sashing between the blocks to add length to the quilt. Here is mine, with the Rolling Star center block I used for my quilt. This block has set-in pieces and lots of fiddly cutting and piecing so I chose not to try to "teach" that block here: :

In September I provided instructions for this alternate block for those who did not want to do the Barn. Here is the Twinkling Star pinned on top of the center of my quilt:

If you interested in my setting, send me an email and I'll send my detailed instructions.. The document is very long as it goes step by step through the process.

Next month the instructions discuss the Quilting and the Binding. As I'll be at Quilt Market and Quilt Festival for almost two weeks, it is not likely mine will even get basted. But my goal is to complete this quilt in 2019 so it does not become another quilt top waiting to be quilted.

Let's quilt.

Barabara

Sunday, September 30, 2018

Month 10 The Patchwork Barn

Month 8

Month 9

NOTE: On The Quilt Show, the Forum is the best place to ask questions, find answers, or find out if there is a change in the pattern. I recommend you check in there frequently. And there is a Show and Tell Topic--show us your blocks. Forum Patchwork Barn

NOTE: This instructional blog is posting one day early--the pattern for Month 10 will be released October 1, 2018, as usual.

In Month 10, you will make the two applique' borders. The pattern has the borders cut 78.5" x 7.5". This is the size the borders need to be AFTER they are applique'd and are ready to be added to the left and right sides of the quilt.

Things to consider BEFORE cutting the borders to applique':

1. There might be shrinkage due to the applique', making the borders shorter than 78.5" once all the appliques' are sewn in place.

2. Do you plan to lengthen the quilt by adding additional sashing between each block? If so, be sure you make the borders longer to allow for that.

I always start my applique' projects with background fabric that is bigger than the size it will be when the applique' is done. For this quilt I would cut those borders 8" wide and 79" long. Make a light pencil mark 1/4" in from the top and bottom edges to show you where you will ultimately cut the long borders--they will be trimmed to 78.5" when the applique's are done.

I changed my quilt by not adding applique' at all and adding 1" finished sashing to separate the blocks. The Sunday Sew and Sews asked how to increase the size of this project and this is what I came up with:

My Final Layout 75" x 98"

In Month 11 you will get all the instructions for putting the rows of blocks together and then adding these final applique' borders. In my blog I will provide the measurements for my setting.

I did make a wallhanging with the Twinkling Star center block and the same applique' shapes. I wrote about the applique' technique for Month 9, here.

We are getting near the end of this project--I hope you are enjoying the journey.

Let's quilt.

Barbara

Saturday, September 1, 2018

Month 9 The Patchwork Barn--Part 1 The Barn

Month 8

We made it to Month 9--the center Barn is up next. Here is the Barn made by one of the wonderful Sunday Sew and Sews, Brenda:

Since I have another center planned for my quilt, Brenda was the "celebrity stunt sewer" who was able to test out all the directions.

I RECOMMEND YOU READ ALL THESE DIRECTIONS BEFORE YOU BEGIN THE BARN--THERE IS AN ADJUSTMENT TO THE TEMPLATES YOU MIGHT LIKE. READ ON:

To make the Templates needed for the roof, I use freezer paper--unless I am making lots of the same shape, then I use template plastic. Freezer paper can be seen through and you can write on the matte side--I use a pencil so I can correct any incorrectly drawn lines. Draw as accurately as possible, and use a mechanical pencil for a fine line. Incorrect templates will cause difficulties when you try to sew the pieces together.

The important thing to be aware of is the Roof--parts A and B are "Reverse Mirror Images"--this means they need to be cut in opposite directions. If you are using a solid for Part A--no problem, you can simply flip one over. But if you are using a print for A or B, the easiest way to cut these is in two layers, right sides together--this will automatically give you reverse units.

The other advantage to freezer paper, I press the shiny side down to my fabric--this holds the fabric in place as I cut with a rotary cutter--I have my fabrics in two layers, right sides together. NOTE: Since you need a total of 4 of each part, you can cut four layers if you like, two sets both right sides together, to cut all the pieces at once. This requires more strength when cutting and a sharp blade. I prefer to cut two layers but the choice is yours.

Here are a set of templates laid out, ready to cut. They are rough cut, larger now so I can cut precisely on the line when cutting the fabrics. Written on them is the note "Cut 2 and cut 2 in Reverse". I also draw a "straight of grain line"--the double arrow--so I am sure to get the grain straight on the outside edge of the roof unit. You may notice, I drew in the seam allowance line on Part A and omitted it on Part B--either is fine. Shown below is the way to cut both options:

Part A cut on the outer pencil line--try to split that pencil line in half--do not leave the line in place, your pieces will be too large:

Part B cut 1/4" away from the drawn pencil line, which is the sewing line. Place your ruler very carefully::

NOW, before I sewed these parts together, I knew it would be a little challenging to get them aligned because of the odd angles. I made adjustments to the templates to be sure they would fit perfectly. SEE BELOW FOR THOSE ADJUSTMENTS. Here is what Parts A and B look like with slight adjustments:

Here they are, right sides together, ready to be sewn. The outer edges line up just right so you know exactly where to start sewing:

Part A and B sewn together. I pressed one toward Part A and one toward Part B, so the seams nest in the next step. NOTE: I strongly recommend a DRY iron at this point--steam can easily stretch these bias edges out of shape, you don't want that:

The two halves, pinned, ready to sew. The seams nest, I pinned to be sure they stayed in place. This seam is all bias, that is stretchy, so don't handle it too roughly. I put the bottom pin about an inch in so I can leave it in place as I sew the seam straight, all the way to the end:

You get to decide how perfect it has to be. A tip for being sure these intersections meet is to machine baste just that spot with a long stitch, about a half inch before and a half inch after the intersection--take it out of the machine, check it--if it's fine, turn the stitch length back to normal and sew the entire seam. If it's off more than you like, remove the basting stitches, fiddle with it a bit, and baste again. I'd rather pull out basting stitches than have to un-sew with a stitch ripper, especially on bias seams:

I pressed the center seam open, again, with a dry iron. All done, now you just have to make the other half of the roof unit:

ADJUSTMENTS I MADE TO HELP WITH PLACEMENT WHEN SEWING THESE ODD ANGLES. I tested this unit out and always find it helpful to cut odd angles so the fabrics will align perfectly. The RED lines on the pattern show my adjustment, they are cut 1/4" away from the seam allowance intersections:

If you don't want to do this, another tip that can help is to draw a dot on all three intersections of both fabric pieces--this is at the 1/4" seam allowance intersections. Draw this on the back side of the fabric--I use a pencil if I can see it--then you pin those dots exactly to each other. Tails will stick out--those are the tails I eliminated with my template adjustments. As long as your dots line up, the seam will be correct when you sew it.

The rest of the barn is straightforward, follow the directions. The cut measurements are exact, so you need to CUT and then SEW the pieces exactly. Check yourself as you go to be sure your units aren't "growing" as you sew all those seams.

TIP: The outer borders of the Barn are cut exactly to size. If you are adding the applique's, you might want to cut them wider than they need to be so you can trim the block perfectly when the applique's are in place. The borders get a lot of handling as you add the applique's.

Once your Barn Block Center is done congratulate yourself and take a break--you have come a long way.

Month 9 The Patchwork Barn--Part 2 will discuss the applique' instructions.

Let's quilt.

Barbara

Friday, June 1, 2018

Month 6 The Patchwork Barn

This is the FREE Block of the Month pattern "Patchwork Barn", designed by Edyta Sitar exclusively for The Quilt Show. You must be a Star member of this world-wide quilt guild/show/internet community to receive the free patterns each month, beginning January 1, 2018. Join today and get started on this journey.

Previous instructions are here:

IntroductionMonth 1
Month 2
Month 3
Month 4
Month 5

NOTE: On The Quilt Show, the Forum is the best place to ask questions, find answers, or find out if there is a change in the pattern. I recommend you check in there frequently. And there is a Show and Tell Topic--show us your blocks. Forum Patchwork Barn

We've made it to Month 6--half way there! You will like these blocks, pretty simple, not many pieces, a chance to use smaller pieces you've been saving.

Block 16

This Turnstile block is a combination of half square (HST) and quarter square (QST) triangles. I like to "sew first" when I can. I always oversize the starting pieces to allow for trimming after the sewing is done.

For this block I started with two 4.5" squares of a light and a darker fabric for the smaller triangles--the quarter square triangles. I drew a diagonal line on the back of the light fabric and then sewed 1/4" away from both sides of the line:

I cut apart on the drawn line and the opposite diagonal, creating four pairs of QST:

Next I cut two 4" squares of fabric for the HST in half and added them to the QST units:

One little problem: because of the way the units are made, the blocks have different pinwheels in the middle, one red, one yellow. I am OK with that. If you are not, make them all by following the pattern directions, cutting out all the pieces first, then sewing the block together:

The front and back of two of these, showing my pressing on this block:

Block 17:

A simple combination of QST, this block is easy to "sew first". I started with two pairs of light and dark fabrics. I drew a diagonal line on the back of the light fabrics, and sewed a 1/4" on both sides of the drawn line:

Then I cut the block apart, first on the drawn line, then on the opposite diagonal:

I pressed toward the darker fabric and then laid out the QST pairs, ready to sew into a block. This time it was easy to get the units in the proper orientation. I even used a directional print for the light fabric. As long as you draw the diagonal lines with the directional fabric positioned the same on both pairs, the lines will be all the same in each block. Of course, if you don't care which way the lines run, feel free to draw the diagonal line anyway you like:

Block 18:

A really easy block, and a good one to use some of the smaller pieces you may be saving. I have a ziploc bag of strips and pieces less than 3" wide and a bag of strips and pieces greater than 3". I dug in those bags to cut the pieces for these blocks. Follow the pattern directions and you'll have these done in no time:

I found an orphan 4-patch in the ziploc bag of smaller bits so I used it in the center of one of the blocks.

Hopefully, you're finding these blocks enjoyable to make, only 6 more new block patterns to go. I am working on an alternative center if you want something different than the barn. Additionally, there will be some ideas on how to enlarge the quilt size if you want a bigger quilt. The Sunday Sew and Sews keep me on my toes with such requests!

Let's quilt.

Barbara

Thursday, March 1, 2018

Month 3: The Patchwork Barn

Month 3 brings us three more great blocks. Two of them can easily be paper pieced. NOTE: You can always follow the instructions as written. Here I offer options to help you build your "toolbox" of techniques.

Block 7: Flying Geese is comprised of 8 flying geese units. In Electric Quilt, it is called "Flying Geese 14". It is easy to print this block out from EQ, being sure you set the correct block size. By printing Foundation piecing patterns, and selecting "Separate Units", you will get a pattern for each strip of geese, here is one ready to sew:

Last month there was a lot of information on how to paper piece. I also have a Tutorial called Paper Piecing Primer, if you need a refresher--see the Tutorial Tab above.

In order to paper piece, you need to cut the pieces larger than the pattern requires. Luckily, it is easy to find out what size to cut them: My Four Flying Geese Tutorial includes a chart that shows exactly how to oversize the pieces.

Start at the bottom, placing the first goose on the back side of the paper. Being sure you have a 1/4" seam allowance, add the first background triangle on top of the goose, flip the whole thing over, and sew on the line. BE SURE to shorten your stitches--I use 1.5. Stitch 1/4" beyond the stitching line, just as you would if piecing regularly:

Continue until the four geese and their backgrounds are in place. Be sure to finger press or iron press firmly after each seam--do not use steam, we don't want to make pulp:

Left strip before trimming, Right strip after

Trim carefully, being sure you have 1/4" beyond both sides of the strip. Measure from the center out:

Remove the paper from both strips and join the two halves to complete the block.Yes, I know I rotated one strip completely around. Do whichever you prefer:

If you prefer to make the geese with regular piecing, try the "make four geese at once" method--discussed at length in the tutorial mentioned above. I use the oversize measurements and "trim to perfection", my preferred method. To easily draw the line on the background, I start with a square that is the size of the 4 squares, in this case, 2.75" means a 5.5" square. Draw the diagonal lines from corner to corner in both directions, then cut the square in quarters--it's magic, you easily have lines drawn on all 4 small squares quickly:

The Process:

Before and after trimming to perfection:

Make your geese however you like. The choice is yours.

Block 8: Rolling Stone presents a math challenge. The four corners are "square in a a square" units. To be 100% accurate the A square should be cut 1.9142"--a number we just can't deal with. 1 7/8" is slightly too small, 2" is slightly too large. You could fiddle with making a very scant seam allowance OR you can use 1 7/8" as the pattern calls for BUT I recommend you cut the B triangles from 2" squares, slightly larger than 1 7/8" listed in the pattern. This will give you just a smidge more fabric to be sure you get the correct size corners.

BUT to be 100% accurate easily, those corner blocks can be paper pieced. In Electric Quilt I selected the Rolling Stone block, and printed just the four corner units, being sure the block size was correct:

Cut the fabrics larger than the pattern lists, very important for paper piecing. I chain pieced all four squares, pressing each triangle as it was added. Left unit trimmed, Right ready to be trimmed:

Consider using different fabric combinations in your three blocks--the choice is yours. Even if using a kit, there is enough fabric to customize your quilt:

Block 9: reminds me of a portion of the Bear's Paw block. This one is fast and easy. My preferred method for making Half Square Triangles is to use Creative Grids Half Square Triangle ruler. Add .5" to the finished size of the HST, cut two strips that size, put them right sides together and cut. They are ready to be easily fed through the machine:

When pressing, remember the little arrows in the pattern diagrams show the recommended direction for pressing. If you prefer to press open, that is up to you. Whatever works best for you is the correct method.

What if I use different fabrics for the HST and the large center? One more block to go and I just might do this, or something else for that large square. Time will tell--I'll sew the 3rd one at the Sunday Sew and Sews class later this month:

I hope you are enjoying the process.

Let's quilt!

Barbara

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