PICK A PETAL ADDED BONUS -- PAPER PIECED FAN BLADES

The 2024 Block of the Month Quilt for The Quilt Show was designed by Jen Kingwell exclusively for Star Members of The Quilt Show. Join today to get access to the patterns, once a month throughout 2024, along with almost 500 shows featuring the best and brightest movers and shakers in the Quilt World. Membership is $49 for the entire year, the best money you will spend on your quilting journey.

This is an extra added bonus--instructions on how to paper piece those little fan blades. There are 256 fan blades, that make 64 Fan Blocks, or 32 Double Fan Blocks in the outer border so working ahead is a good idea, rather than waiting until Month 11 to start. 

NOTE: If you prefer to follow the pattern instructions just ignore this post.

The sample quilt uses a very scrappy plan--the backgrounds and fan handles are all different. This shows 2 Fan Blocks made, then joined together: 

You have some options. The top one shown below has one fabric in the background and handle, the middle one has four different fabrics, the bottom one has two handles and one double background. Do whichever you like or some of each as I am doing:

The Fan Blocks are the same size as the fans from Month 1. They include a background that will make each Double Fan Block finish at 4" x 8", or 4.5" x 8.5" with seam allowances. The template for the background will be provided in Month 11. Just make the fan blades with handles so you will be able to add the background when the template is provided.  If you have the acrylic template set, you have the background piece.

To me, one of the most time-consuming parts of the fan block is cutting the many blades with the small templates. A friend/student reminded me about paper piecing the fans as we did when we made Garden Party Down Under. Brilliant! It takes little time to cut rectangles for the blades and paper piece them. 

Paper piecing uses more fabric but saves time. You can print the pattern that is provided on newsprint, vellum, or freezer paper. The advantage to freezer paper is you need very few printed patterns, you DO NOT sew through the  paper. Stitch length remains as normal for piecing, 2.0 for me. Each pattern can be used many times, so far I have made 40 fan blocks with only TWO printed patterns.

I have a Tutorial on Freezer Paper Foundation Piecing from an earlier Block of the Month, Color My World. Check it out, I won't repeat all that information here.

First, I cut a wide variety of fan blades about 2.5" x 3.5". You might find you can get away with slightly smaller so try a few first before cutting 256 rectangles:

On the LIVE which will air Friday February 2, 2024, noon central time, I will show all the steps described here. I recommend you watch it for more information. Find all my LIVE broadcasts HERE

Paper Piecing can seem "upside down and backwards". Place the butt side of the fabric to the butt side of the paper. Align two fabrics right sides together so there is the normal 1/4" seam allowance. If not sure you have the fabrics in the right place use a PIN to check  BEFORE sewing.

Use the EDGE of  the Freezer Paper FOLDED BACK as the GUIDE for where to sew. Right next to the FOLD:

The best notion I own for paper piecing is the Add-A-Quarter ruler. Use it with a flat edge, like a postcard, to trim excess fabric after sewing the first pair of rectangles in place, giving the 1/4" seam for adding the next rectangle. The postcard is placed on the next sewing line, fold the paper back over the postcard, and put the ruler 1/4" away from the line, Adding A Quarter inch:

Angles can be tricky, that orange floral just barely covers the paper. I should have moved it a bit more:

The process is SEW, FLIP, TRIM, SEW. Because you are pressing the fabric to the waxy side of the freezer paper, the fabric stays put. After making several the wax is gone, so I use a very light dab of glue stick, my favorite for this is Elmer's Disappearing Purple Washable School Glue. Here are my favorite notions for freezer paper piecing. I will demo how use them in the LIVE:

Once the four blades are sewn on, trim the excess fabric away, being sure you get a full 1/4" seam allowance beyond the finished line. I use scissors for the curves, rotary cutter for the straight edges:

 

Now you get to decide, do you want to make two complete 4" fan blocks and join them. OR do you want to sew two sets of 4 fan blades then add a half circle handle and a Double background. I did both, finally settling on the double sets of fan blades as my favorite:

To make the double handle I tried two methods. I created a template of the double size from template plastic. After trying to machine piece it and doing a poor job, I decided to hand applique it on. That worked better. But it was fiddly to keep the handle where it needed to be as I was sewing.

Then I decided to prepare the outer edge of the handle over freezer paper, as I often do for applique. I simply used a 3" circle from Bigger Perfect Circles, adding a seam allowance at the bottom. Here is what my page looks like.  I printed it on freezer paper and it worked great. I won't send this out, you can simply draw your own:

12 Doubles, 4 Singles

Seam allowance glued to back of freezer paper 

If you want the double handle to be made from two fabrics, simply sew two squares cut 2.5" together and make a double handle that uses two fabrics. It adds another seam but is more scrappy.

After gluing the curved edge over the freezer paper, I knew it would be so easy to machine applique these  handles now that they are prepared. So I did that and loved it. I will do all the rest of them this way. I used the acrylic template to add the dots at the bottom edges and center. Then I used a very light touch of fabric glue to hold it in place, no pins.

 Once it is sewn in place, by hand or machine, spritz with plain water, count to 10, and the freezer paper will pull right out. If it doesn't, spritz again and next time use less glue:

Some of the best videos on machine applique are from Becky Goldsmith, prepared for SIZZLE, the 2019 Block of the Month quilt. Find them HERE

Then I decided to make the background as a Double background. The Kit has at least 28 fat eighths, making it easy to cut these as 5" x 9". It takes 32 Doubles to equal 64 Singles, the amount needed for the outer border of this quilt. 

Fold the rectangle in half, WRONG SIDES OUT. Use the acrylic template to draw/cut the background. Cutting the rectangle 5" allows for a bit extra along both outer edges. Trim that AFTER THE BLOCK IS COMPLETE. 

BE SURE TO PLACE THE FOLD ON THE INNER DOT--with the FOLD you don't need the seam allowance at the middle. Here the FOLD is at the top and the RED ARROW points to the dots at the seam allowance placed exactly on the FOLD:

I found the outside background easy to machine piece, using pins that align the dots to the fan blades. When both the handle and outside background are sewn on, carefully trim the rectangle to 4.5" x 8.5". I work from the middle outward, putting the 4.25" line on the center. You should have 1/2" of background beyond the outer fan blades, which is 1/4" background, 1/4" seam allowance:

There are so many ways to do all these various steps. Try a variety to learn your favorite. My motto is "I want the fastest method that gives me the result I want.". Sometimes that's by hand, sometimes by machine. The more skills you have, the more likely you will find the right technique for any given project.

Let's quilt.

Barbara

PICK A PETAL -- MONTH 2

PICK A PETAL is the 2024 Block of the Month quilt designed by Jen Kingwell exclusively for The Quilt Show. It is FREE to Star Members, join today to take advantage of this great bonus. WATCH Jen's Show to see how she makes this quilt--it is FREE for EVERYONE all of 2024: Jen Kingwell Show 3401

It's Month 2 and we start making a simple block, the Improved or Glorified 9 Patch :

Jen's Block 1 from the sample quilt

Jen does mostly hand piecing. The acrylic template set makes this block easy to cut out for that purpose. I prefer to machine piece when it's easier and faster, as it is with this block:

My Block 1, machine pieced, hand appliqued

MY METHOD  should you wish to try it:

1. Make an uneven 9 Patch:

         Cut 1 center square 2.25" 

         Cut 4 rectangles 2.25" x 3.75" 

         Cut 4 squares 3.75" 

         Sew the 9 pieces into a 9 Patch:

2. PREFER TO HAND APPLIQUE?:   Add Crescents, Template H, to the four sides of the block. I did it by needle turn hand applique. After showing you my method I will show how to machine applique, if you prefer.

        

Use Template G to add the 3 Dots to the two sides and bottom corner of each of the large squares. I used a Micron pen but be aware it is permanent so you have to be sure to cover it when sewing:

 

3. I made a plastic template of Crescent shape H without the seam allowance on the top curve so I could easily draw the sewing line--I like to have a line for hand applique drawn lightlty with a mechanical pencil. I also added extra to the bottom edge so I can "trim to perfection" when the block is done:

4. I used Template H to draw the dots on the fabric Crescent, again, if using a permanent marker be careful:

5. I finger pressed the curved edge under 1/4", using the dots as a guide. Pinned in place I am ready to hand applique this first Crescent:

6. Once all 4 Crescents are sewn, carefully cut away the excess fabric under the Crescent, keeping a 1/4" seam allowance, repeat with the remaining 3 sides:

7. Press the block as flat as possible, use Flatter or Sizing or Starch or Best Press if you like. Spray, let it dry, press firmly with a DRY iron.

Using an 8.5" square ruler, CAREFULLY TRIM TO PERFECTION. Fiddle a bit to be sure you have the four outer corners accurately aligned with the diagonal line on the ruler and the opposite corners:

45 degree line from upper right to lower left

Get the 1/4" mark exactly at the finished corner

Before and After Trimming

PREFER TO MACHINE APPLIQUE?:   I recommend Print N Piece Fuse Lite by Quilters Select as a pattern and stabilizer. It mostly washes out when the quilt is finished, and does not add bulk or weight.

Place fusible side on the back side of the fabric, allow 1/4" seam allowance at the curve

 Press with a dry iron following package instructions

Cut out 4 Crescents including the seam allowance on the top curve. Use a fabric glue stick to turn the seam allowance over and glue in place. A  nice curve on the back will give you a nice curve on the front:

Quilters Select Fabric Glue Pen is the best I have found for this process

The Appliquik tool really helps turn that curved edge flat

Use your favorite machine stitch for the applique: Blanket, Zig Zag, Edgestitch, there are several on most machines, try a variety to find your favorite. Use the SEARCH BOX on The Quilt Show to find MANY shows that feature this technique:

If you don't want the stitches to show much:

 

    Use fine thread--I like Quilters Select 60 or 80 wt depending on the color I need.

    Match thread color to the applique as closely as possible.

   Try a few different size stitches to find what looks best.

So there you have it, an alternative method to make Block 1. It's your quilt, you get to decide.

There are a total of 20 of these in the entire quilt. The machine piecing method I described here works great as Leaders/Enders. I made all 20 of the 9 Patches while making other things. Using many of the Kit fabrics, I simply cut out 80 each of the small and large rectangles, and 20 center squares. They sat beside my machine to be pieced over time.  

Then I cut 80 Crescents, Template H, again from many of the Kit fabrics. Now I am doing the hand applique in the evenings, while "watching" TV. No rush. And totally portable so they go with me on travel.

Don't agonize over which fabrics to use together--they ALL go. Look at Jen's quilt to get the idea, more fabric choice is better:

Next month we move on to Block 2--I have some interesting ideas about that one.

See me on the Facebook LIVE Friday February 2, 2024, noon central time. All the LIVE broadcasts are recorded so you can watch any time: LIVE BROADCASTS

Let's quilt.

Barbara

My SPECIAL EXHIBIT — REVISITED

 As I apparently forgot to write a post this week, here is a look back at my one-woman show in Houston in 2021.

After not having a show in 2020 it was a joy to return and share my life’s passion with the world. Click the link to see the entire exhibit:

https://bbquiltmaker.blogspot.com/2021/11/houston-quilt-festival-2021-part-2.html

As my son Joshua Black Wilkins had a bucket list moment last night when he took the stage at the Ryman Auditorium in Nashville I was reminded of my own bucket list dreams.

Enjoy!

Let’s quilt.

Barbara 

FEATHERED STARS PERFECTLY PAPER PIECED -- PART 1

The Sunday Sew & Sews are working on Feathered Star quilts in 2024. We met recently so I could give them basic instructions on the process of making a Feathered Star block with paper foundations.

My blocks in progress, started 12 years ago as my Diamond Jubilee quilt for my 60th birthday, I'm late...

The beauty of Sue's patterns is she eliminated the need for Y-seams--the star is made in three sections which are joined with straight lines: 

While making my own Feathered Stars, I kept thinking "I need to tell them that" or "They should know this" so I decided to use one blog post a month for a while to supplement the instructions. 

If you want to play along, we are using one of two Sue Garman patterns. Each makes a 15" FS, one with two Feathers on each arm and one with 3 Feathers. Find the patterns here: Washington Medallion two feathers so larger pieces OR Feathered Star Heaven three feathers so pieces are smaller.  Sue has excellent instructions, I have learned tips/tricks since I have made a LOT of Feathered Stars.

Before you begin, l recommend you read my TUTORIAL on foundation paper piecing. It uses another Star block design from Sue Garman but the information is the same. Thread, stitch length, pattern printing, all are very important for paper piecing. Pieces are cut oversized to make it easier to cover the shape. Do not use steam in the iron when working with paper--we don't want to make pulp. Read that TUTORIAL for all that information. 

The great thing about paper piecing is the accuracy you can get. I have made Feathered Stars with regular machine piecing, using Marsha McCloskey's wonderful book, but find I am more accurate and prefer to paper piece this block. And with paper you can write the fabric colors on the pattern so you don't get confused:

The pattern has numbers that is the order in which each piece is sewn, starting with 1. Placement of the first piece gets you started correctly. Remember to put the "butt" side of the fabric to the "butt" side of the paper. 

Placement of the colored feather is tricky, it goes as shown here on the upper left. The white feather goes like a Half Square Triangle, as shown here on the lower right. Once you get the hang of it, it makes sense:

If you are new to paper piecing, I recommend you start with a PIN before you sew to be sure you have placed the fabric correctly on the paper, much easier to re-pin and try again than to pick out tiny stitches. The angles can throw you off--I made two of these correctly and two wrong:

The process is SEW, FLIP, PRESS, TRIM, SEW:

After sewing on a piece, FLIP it over the sewn line, PRESS with a dry iron, TRIM with an Add-A-Quarter Ruler, then SEW the next piece on. Ask yourself "What did I just add and what comes next?" Follow the numbers on the pattern:

Postcard is placed on the next line to be SEWN, adding fabric 3

Fold back the paper over the postcard, put the Add-A-Quarter ruler over the paper and postcard and TRIM exactly 1/4" beyond the sewing line

                                                                    

Because I sew at least 1/4 beyond the finished line I may have to separate the stitches from the paper 

This shows the different placement of the navy blue feather--again, using a PIN to check yourself is smart before sewing:

What could possibly GO WRONG?  Because we are sewing on the paper line, the fabric is UNDER the paper. Occasionally, the fabric moves once it is on the sewing machine and you get a tuck or the fabric isn't correctly in place. Use your trusty stitch ripper to carefully remove those stitches and re-sew. I try to remember to look under the  paper BEFORE sewing to be sure all is flat but sometimes things happen:

And the process is  a little MESSY:

Once each section is done, I trim it exactly 1/4" away from the Finished line. I don't worry about the seam allowance line, it is more important to have the outside edge exactly 1/4" larger than the finished size:

Before and after trimming 

1/4" line on ruler is placed exactly on the Finished line, trim 1/4" away from the sewing line

Both units trimmed

A few of the sections are a little tricky. After adding the diamond tips and feathers, we have to add the large green triangle to that row of feathers: 

Fold the finished line, the SEWING line, over onto the cardboard:

TRIM with the Add-A-Quarter ruler to get the perfect 1/4" seam allowance to add the Green triangle:

Before sewing the Green Triangle be sure it is placed correctly, pin to check if necessary:

Green triangle ready to be sewn: 

Two units done, one not yet trimmed and one trimmed: 

I leave all the paper on each unit UNTIL I am ready to complete the block. At that point the paper has done it's job, given you perfectly accurate units. I find it much too difficult to join the units with the paper still on AND then you have to dig out all the seam allowance pieces of paper too. 

Here is how the block is starting to come together, remember the paper is still in place on the back of each of these units:

That's plenty of information for this month. If you are joining us, work on the sections/units and next month I will show you how to sew the block together--I have TIPS!

The Sunday Sew & Sews, with one who joined us on Facetime from Florida. This is  going to be a fun year:

Let's quilt,

Barbara